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Islamic World · c. 700 – today

Talismanic shirts & textiles

Meaning

A talismanic shirt (jama) is covered, front and back, with the entire Qur'an or selected verses, the Ninety-Nine Names, prayers, magic squares and grids, written in tiny script in coloured inks and gold.

Intent

It was worn under armour by rulers and warriors for protection in battle and victory, and sometimes for illness. Some were drawn up to match the wearer's horoscope by court astrologers.

Significance

These are among the most astonishing manuscripts of the Islamic world, and some took years to make. Examples linked with Ottoman sultans and Mughal emperors are now in Istanbul's Topkapı Palace, the V&A and the Metropolitan Museum.

History

Talismanic shirts were made at Ottoman, Safavid and Mughal courts from the late 15th to the 18th centuries, with notable examples from the time of Selim I and Süleyman the Magnificent. West African versions continued into modern times.

Making yours
A full-size tunic, block-ruled into hundreds of tiny panels of text in black, red, gold and blue.
Islamic World: the tradition

Islamic theology distinguishes forbidden amulets (tama'im, charms trusted in themselves) from permitted protection by God's word, so the characteristic Islamic amulet is textual: Qur'anic verses, especially the Throne Verse (2:255) and the last two suras, the Mu'awwidhatayn, along with the Ninety-Nine Names of God, magic squares (wafq) and the Seal of Solomon. Scholars such as al-Buni (d. 1225) wrote manuals of letter and number magic. The hand of Fatima and the blue eye bead came from pre-Islamic Mediterranean practice and remained hugely popular. Talismanic art reached a peak at the Ottoman, Safavid and Mughal courts in shirts, armour, bowls and seals.

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Textile, talismanic shirt, inscribed and painted cotton, probably India, caTextile, talismanic shirt, inscribed and painted cotton, probably India, caIndia · ca. 15th century - ca. 16th centuryTalisman from TurkeyTalisman from TurkeyTurkey · Ottoman dynasty (1299–1923), 1822Dress, 'Talisman', starched cotton, Diotima, Spring 2024 collection, 2023, JamaicaDress, 'Talisman', starched cotton, Diotima, Spring 2024 collection, 2023, JamaicaJamaica · 2024Talismanic ShirtTalismanic Shirt15th–early 16th centuryTextile, talismanic shirt, inscribed and painted cotton, with ink and gold paint, probably India, caTextile, talismanic shirt, inscribed and painted cotton, with ink and gold paint, probably India, caIndia · ca. 15th century - ca. 16th centuryTalismanic ShirtTalismanic Shirt15th–early 16th centuryTalismanic ShirtTalismanic Shirt15th–early 16th centuryTalismanic ShirtTalismanic Shirt15th–early 16th centuryTalismanic ShirtTalismanic Shirt15th–early 16th centuryKhalili Collection Hajj and Arts of Pilgrimage Talismanic shirtKhalili Collection Hajj and Arts of Pilgrimage Talismanic shirtOttoman 16th Century Talismanic Shirt in Topkapı Palace (13-1408)Ottoman 16th Century Talismanic Shirt in Topkapı Palace (13-1408)New York Public Library, Spencer Collection Turk. MS. 3 Siyar-i Nabî fol. 214r Ka'b al-Ahbar watches Islamic declaration of faith appear miraculously on Yahya's robe twiceNew York Public Library, Spencer Collection Turk. MS. 3 Siyar-i Nabî fol. 214r Ka'b al-Ahbar watches Islamic declaration of faith appear miraculously on Yahya's robe twiceIskandar and the kitchen boy (folio 24a). Khamsa of Jamali. 1465, Baghdad (British Library, IO Islamic 138)Iskandar and the kitchen boy (folio 24a). Khamsa of Jamali. 1465, Baghdad (British Library, IO Islamic 138)Khusraw spies Shirin bathing (folio 75a). Khamsa of Jamali. 1465, Baghdad (British Library, IO Islamic 138)Khusraw spies Shirin bathing (folio 75a). Khamsa of Jamali. 1465, Baghdad (British Library, IO Islamic 138)Layla and Majnun fainting. Khamsa of Jamali (folio 101b). 1465, Baghdad (British Library, IO Islamic 138)Layla and Majnun fainting. Khamsa of Jamali (folio 101b). 1465, Baghdad (British Library, IO Islamic 138)Mahzun and Mahbub in a Garden, from a copy of the Khamsa of Jamali. Baghdad, 1465 (British Library, IO Islamic 138) folio 125bMahzun and Mahbub in a Garden, from a copy of the Khamsa of Jamali. Baghdad, 1465 (British Library, IO Islamic 138) folio 125bKhalili Collection Hajj and Arts of Pilgrimage txt 0471.2Khalili Collection Hajj and Arts of Pilgrimage txt 0471.2Sultan Mahmud and the gardener (folio 14a). Khamsa of Jamali. 1465, Baghdad (British Library, IO Islamic 138)Sultan Mahmud and the gardener (folio 14a). Khamsa of Jamali. 1465, Baghdad (British Library, IO Islamic 138)

More from Islamic World: Khamsa / Hand of Fatima · Nazar evil-eye beads · Qur’an & amulet cases (hirz, ta’wiz) · Talismanic scrolls & sheets · Talismanic seals & engraved stones · Maghreb & Tuareg silver · Other & unsorted Islamic World
Every type in the gallery

Anything in the gallery can be made: any piece, any tradition, in its own material or yours, by hand from the documented original. Numbered. Price on commission, quoted before anything is made. I reply within one business day.